NOTE: THIS IS AN UPDATE ADDED OCTOBER 12, 2010: PLEASE READ THE LAST TWO COMMENTS TO THIS POST. They provide some welcome update information!!
This post is about an overnight trip we made to Selma Alabama when we were staying on the Gulf Coast there. This was in 2005, so it is possible that some things have changed since then, but the history certainly has not. I wanted to re-post it to honor Martin Luther King's birthday, celebrated today.
We went to Selma because we wanted to see this place where so much civil rights history took place. It was amazing to see "in person" ("in-place"?) the Edmund Pettis Bridge and the Little Brown Church, where the 40-mile March to Montgomery began. Of course we had watched these events unfold as on the nightly news, but it really doesn't come close to standing on the spot where history happened.
Below is one link for a quick overview of what happened on the three Selma to Montgomery marches.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/selma_to_montgomery_marches
The Bridge's location is obvious -- because you have to drive across it to get into town. Whenever we go to any city or town, we go first to the visitor center for literature and directions. But when we went to one in Selma we were given information only on the "white history" of the area (about the Civil War, cotton, agriculture etc.) and met with a kind of polite evasion when we asked about the Little Brown Church and the MLK monument. Apparently, the visitor center felt like the "Black History" was separate and apart. Unbelievably sad in this day and age.
So we walked around town and located the Church and the Monument on our own. And, we found that there is a very interesting Voting Rights Museum quite near to the Bridge. (No mention of this had been made at the visitor center.)
I wanted to hope that this attitude might have changed some since we were there, but fear it has not. This morning, when I went to Google to check my memory, especially about the Museum (because we didn't take pictures in it) I found that the official Selma web page gives the museum -- and indeed the whole Civil Rights/Voting rights issue -- only the briefest of mentions. The Museum has no official web-site.
Anyway, once we located the Museum and went inside, we talked to Joann Bland, the museum founder. (I'm sure that she meets pretty much everybody who comes -- and in any case there were hardly any other visitors at the time). As a child, she was at Bloody Sunday, where her companion was wounded, and then she later marched to Montgomery.
The museum's displays include a good overview film and still photos taken during the marches. These pictures were actually taken by FBI agents who were keeping an eye on the participants -- the Museum obtained them under the Freedom of Information Act. The room that I remember most clearly is the one full of shoe-casts of many of the participants in the March to Montgomery (from kids to grandparents). There was something so poignant about seeing those feet and thinking about the miles they walked to support this cause, under circumstances I can barely imagine even after watching the news and seeing again the film and pictures. These were just regular people willing to take a huge risk to get to do something we have always taken for granted. While they certainly had a charismatic leader, nothing would have happened without these ordinary people.
This visit was so worth the time and effort . Selma's definitely not a top tourist destination, but I feel like it should be. Our country's history was changed here. Anyone who has the chance should go.